Week 7 6th-12th July

Wind 1 Variable Calm and cloudy

We left Lossiemouth early as we were in a shallow mud berth and wanted to avoid getting stuck. It was a beautiful calm morning but as we approached the main channel Richard suddenly decided to go for a swim……….

We gently continued along the Moray Firth to Inverness. It seemed different seeing land both sides of us. For so long we have just had land on our port side (left side when facing forwards towards bow of boat).

We decided to have a wander into Inverness. It was a little further than we realised but was good to stretch the legs. Despite the rain we saw attractive old buildings and river views of Inverness. We sheltered in Victoria market during one downpour, then enjoyed a quick drink in a cosy bar before returning to the marina.

We bought our licence online to enable us to enter the Caledonian canal the next day. It costs £22.35 per metre (we are 10.7m) and includes locks, bridges, mooring and use of facilities for 7 nights. scottishcanals.co.uk

Wind 1 Variable.

7 Locks 3 Swing bridges

The Caledonian Canal was completed in 1822 by Scottish engineer Thomas Telford. It connects the East and West coasts between Inverness and Corpach.

Length of natural lochs 61.16km (38 miles)

Length of canal cuttings 35.4km (22 miles)

Total length of canal 96.56 km (60 miles)

29 lochs and 11 bridges

We contacted Clachnaharry Sea Lock by VHF radio to confirm our booking for midday and motored around to the entrance. We were given instructions regarding the order we should enter and side of the lock. We were third to enter and tied up Port side. The first hurdle was having to throw the ropes up to the lock keeper. The walls feel very high when throwing a heavy rope. He hooked us onto the side of the lock and passed the rope back down to us. We had to then hold it firm as the lock began filling with water. We were lucky not being at the front of the lock where the water can get quite swirly.

After passing through a second lock we had a quick lunch on board at Seaport Marina. After the lock keepers had finished their lunch break we passed through the swing bridge and the 5 locks at Muirtown.

Emerging from the locks we had swapped bleak grey seascapes for a gentler pastoral landscape. We arrived at Dochgarroch just in time to grab a gelato ice cream before the shop closed at 5pm. We had a really peaceful nights sleep (apart from 3:30 when Maisie woke us to be lifted onto our bed). : )

Wind Variable

0 Bridges 1 lock 2 lochs

The friendly lock keeper was quite flexible about when we could enter the lock. We radioed him in the morning and passed through at about 9:15am. The lock keeper gave Sue some rope throwing tips so she’s hoping to be able to throw the rope to the top of the wall first time at the next lock. He warned us about a yacht that had run aground near a weir in Loch Dochfour. They had gone to the wrong side of the lateral buoy. He had no idea when they would be floated again as there is no tide in the canal. It’s worth noting that when travelling East to West on the Caledonian canal the green buoy should be to your left and red to your right.

The English Channel is about 70-90 metres deep.

Loch Ness maximum length is 36.2km (22.5 miles) and 2.7km (1.7 miles) maximum width. It is the largest lake by volume in the UK (7.30km³). At the southern end of Loch Ness is Fort Augustus. We tied up there for the night.

We have learnt a lot about different washing machines during our sailing trip. At Fort Augustus there was a top loader machine which we couldn’t get to work. Thankfully the lock keeper gave the lid a good slam and it started. By then it was too late to cook so we managed to catch up the laundry while enjoying a beer and an evening meal in the pub. Richard will be volunteering to do the washing when we get home.

Wind calm and irrelevant. Weather initially wet then blue skies and sunshine.

3 bridges and 7 locks and 1 loch

Wind still irrelevant. Weather sunny start then rain.

0 bridges 1 lock and 1 loch

We had a relaxed start enjoying a leisurely breakfast in the sun. We travelled through the lock at South Laggan at 9:50. No need to worry about throwing ropes as the water level is high from now on when we enter the lochs. Down hill to Loch Lochy.

Arriving at Gairlochy around midday we had a little walk and chatted to an engineer from Scottish Canals. Richard was keen to talk about the lovely Gordon Setter the engineer had with him. The engineer mentioned he had been fixing the bridge that morning. We found this disconcerting because a few weeks ago the bridge had been closed for 5 days. https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/highlands-islands/5875210/gairlochy-swing-bridge-closed-caledonian-canal/

In the afternoon the first group of boats proceeded through the lock and bridge. We then made our way into the lock with other waiting boats. It is a fairly deep lock, the lock keeper said the water level dropped by 12 feet. When we were at the bottom of the lock the gates opened but we were asked not to move forward until the swing bridge had opened.

They were having difficulties opening the swing bridge. After two hours of waiting in the lock the gates were closed and the lock was refilled with water. We all had to reverse out and tie back up to the pontoons. They would try to fix the bridge in the morning. The controls for the bridge had been updated in 2021 so that they could be controlled electronically. Today the controls had kept showing an error notice.

Fortunately we had planned to eat on board in the evening, but the tea and chocolate chip cookie supplies were becoming a bit desperate.

Wind doesn’t matter in a lock. Weather dull and wet

Number of locks and bridges? Read on ….

We all waited patiently listening to VHF channel 74 from 8am onwards. At 11:30 we were amongst the first group of boats asked to enter the lock.

We could have continued with the group of boats from Gairlochy down Neptune’s staircase. Unfortunately Maisie had an appointment at Nevis vets for her blood test.

It was worthwhile not cancelling Maisie’s vet appointment. In four weeks her weight has increased by nearly 1 kg. Her condition score is now a healthier 3. : )

In the evening we had a bad meal at The Moorings Hotel, don’t recommend, we should have checked the reviews first.

So locks today 2 and bridges 2

Neptunes staircase is a dramatic flight of eight locks in the village of Banavie. In the shadow of Ben Nevis the lock lowers the canal by 19m (62 feet) in 0.4km (quarter of a mile). It takes an average 90 minutes to navigate the locks.

The lock keeper was chatting to all of the waiting boats from 8am onwards. A large square rigger entered the first lock and proceeded down two flights. We then entered the top lock with 5 other boats. We had a yacht rafted on Captiva for the entire journey to the sea.

At the bottom of Neptune’s staircase we had to wait for a yacht that was going to make the journey upwards before they opened the bridge. Suddenly there were cascades of water behind us.

Corpach Sea Lock is on the side of Loch Linnhe (a tidal sea loch). We motored past Fort William to Loch a Choire. Richard pumped up the dingy (we last used it in Lulworth Cove) and we anchored for the night. A little too wet to go ashore.