Week 11 3rd to 10th August

Winds SW3 then NW1-6

We left Abersoch just before 6am.

We motor sailed for some of the journey.  It was quite a long sail making our way South down towards Milford Haven. The seas were a little lumpy and the skies mostly grey.

It was a relief to pick up a mooring in Dale at 8pm, rather than continue to Milford Haven. We cooked a quick evening meal before getting a good nights rest.

Winds W 3

 We left Dale at 8am and motored to Milford Haven.

Milford Haven is in Pembrokeshire, Wales. It is situated on the north side of the Milford Haven Waterway, an estuary forming a natural harbour that has been used as a port since the Middle Ages. Imports of oil and gas arrive at Milford Haven. It is the UK’s leading energy port. Port of Milford Haven’s website https://www.mhpa.co.uk/

We were able to enter the lock into the harbour at 9:30am.

After a quick shower and coffee we were met by Richard’s uncle Des, who drove for an hour to his home with aunt Ros in Pembrokeshire. We met Rachael and her family again, who we had seen in Scarborough and her husband Steve, Richards other cousin Christopher, Caroline and their family.  It was great catching up with everyone. We enjoyed a lovely meal and slept overnight in their caravan (no rocking) before returning to the boat in the morning. Thanks Ros and Des for looking after us so well. It was so generous of you to let us interrupt your family gathering.

In case you are wondering, Maisie stayed on the boat. She is much happier in familiar surroundings. After 11 weeks afloat she is mostly comfortable on the boat and has become accustomed to the routine of days in marinas and wobbly journeys between harbours. We have all enjoyed this new lifestyle, a real adventure, it will be quite strange when we finally reach home.

The weather forecast was for rain and high winds so we were glad to be safely moored in Milford Haven. We did some chores and walked ashore to collect some supplies for our next long sail. When preparing for a long crossing we like to divide the day up into a series of meals and mini treats. We enjoyed an evening meal ashore.

Winds NW 3-5

After a relaxed breakfast we left Milford Haven Marina at 9:30 am when the harbour entrance was in free flow (the lock gate was open). If we travelled at an average speed of 5 knots the 120 mile journey would take 24 hours and we would arrive in Tresco in daylight at 9:30 am. 

We had perfect winds of between 15-20 miles an hour North Westerly. This enabled a starboard beam reach for the entire journey. We averaged a speed of 6.6 knots and at times reached 8 knots. We had tides helping us at the beginning and at the end. We have never had such a consistently good sail for a long journey.

We saw several pods of dolphins. Over the years we have wasted many pixels trying to photograph dolphins. Sue was able to successfully capture some when they were leaping out of the water by using the live photo feature on her iphone. It enabled Sue to look at each picture and select the moment when the dolphins leapt as the key photo. 

After banana and coffee snack, coffee and biscuit, lunch of quiche, afternoon tea and biscuit and evening meal of tuna and cheese melt the skies started to darken. by now we realised we were going to arrive much earlier than we had anticipated. This meant a shorter solo nightwatch for us each. Richard did the 9-11pm watch, Sue 11-1:30 and Richard 1:30-4am.

We both were on watch as we arrived off New Grimsby Sound, Tresco at 4am. There was an interesting swell at the entrance, but good to see the welcoming light of White Island lighthouse. After several attempts in the dark we successfully picked up a mooring. We were tucked up in bed by 4:45am. Maisie coped really well curled up safely in the stern cabin for the most of the journey. When we are on a starboard tack she curls up in one of her carry bags. She managed to use her litter tray with no mess. Amazing Maisie cat. Maisie sailed with us to St Marys in the Scilly isles in April (see preparation post) so has now sailed all the way around Britain : )

Waking after a few hours sleep with the feeling of already being home. The Isles of Scilly have always been a special place to us. We had a wander around Tresco Abbey gardens. Richard was keen to buy a few plants to replace some that we lost last winter when we experienced some frosts in Cornwall.

We enjoyed an evening meal in the New Inn although we were a bit shocked by the increased prices. £13.50 for 2 pints of beer, everything on the menu over £20, desserts £10!! It is difficult to find places to eat when visiting Scilly this time of year. Sue had made several attempts to book evening meals a few days before we left Wales. We were glad we had booked, as the New Inn was very busy. 

After lunch we nudged the dingy over to Bryher for a wander around. First stop was Veronicas farm and buying some more plants.

The day was a little grey so we enjoyed a drink in Hells Bay Hotel before continuing our walk around the North of Bryher. This coastline is very familiar to us. We have been visiting the Isles of Scilly once or twice a year for over twenty years.

After a little refreshment in the Fraggle Rock Cafe (much more reasonably priced), we returned to Captiva for an evening meal.

The weather initially seemed a little grey but there was the promise of some blue skies on the horizon. We wandered ashore and settled up our bill for the mooring. The most expensive mooring of our entire trip at £30 per night (dearer than many of the marinas). The joys of anchoring are becoming more apparent. We had a bowl of soup each and Richard enjoyed his first pint of Proper Job in a pub since we left Cornwall.

Under blue skies we walked out to Cromwell Castle, a stone gun tower, built in 1651. It was built during the civil war by Parliamentary forces after they had captured the islands from the Royalists.

Above is King Charles’ Castle built 100 years earlier during the reign of King Edward VI. It was badly sited, the guns would have had to point down at such a steep angle that the canon balls would have rolled out of the guns before they fired.  It was partially dismantled to provide stone for Cromwell’s castle, which was built on lower ground. 

The air became warmer and once we reached the beach at Old Grimsby we were glad to have a swim in the cool seas. It was a treat to feel the warm sun drying us after our swim. We walked up to the Old Blockhouse, a Tudor artillery fort built in the late 1540s to protect Old Grimsby. 

More information about the castles and forts of Scilly available on the English Heritage website. https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/learn/histories/historic-sites-of-scilly/

We returned to Captiva to catch up with Maisie. We enjoyed a reasonably priced evening meal at the Fraggle Rock Cafe on Bryher.

Winds 3 SE then southerly.

The clouds that were creeping in the previous day fully enveloped the islands. When we got up at 5:30, we were hopeful that the mist had cleared.

Unfortunately we had poor visibility for the entire journey. We were able to use AIS to see where there were other boats. It was interesting listening to the VHF how useful AIS has become. Other boats were communicating with each other on channel 16 to check intended directions when they could see that they were nearing another vessel. They were also able to contact other boats who did not have AIS. On this grey misty day there were a greater number of vessels around us than we have experienced for our entire journey around Britain.

We left Tresco at 5:30 and were nearing our homecoming lighthouse, at St Anthony’s Head, at 4:15pm. It was difficult to see it but its sombre foghorn could be clearly heard.

So there we are, back home, in our beautiful house overlooking Falmouth. We have had an amazing adventure. We passed the time journeying home from Scilly asking each other questions like, ‘What was your favourite….” “what was the worse…..”. We can honestly say it has all been pretty wonderful. Having our amazing Maisie with us enabled us to completely detach from the everyday, the journey became a new way of life. We find it difficult to name a favourite place. There is no part of our journey that we would choose to have missed.

We would like to thank all of you who have been following our travels. We have been deeply touched by the supportive comments.

Thanks to all our wonderful family and friends. Looking forward to catching up with you all.

Special thanks to our perfect neighbours, Jill and Simon, for keeping an eye on our home.

Thanks to the fellow adventurers we met on the way.

Thanks to the lovely harbour masters and communities we visited.

Love and thanks to Richard for accompanying me on our fabulous adventure xxxx

So signing out for now from our anti-clockwise journey around Britain after 11 weeks and one day. A journey of more than 1650 miles.

Sue and Richard xxx