Winds SW3 then NW1-6

We left Abersoch just before 6am.

We motor sailed for some of the journey.  It was quite a long sail making our way South down towards Milford Haven. The seas were a little lumpy and the skies mostly grey.

It was a relief to pick up a mooring in Dale at 8pm, rather than continue to Milford Haven. We cooked a quick evening meal before getting a good nights rest.

Winds W 3

 We left Dale at 8am and motored to Milford Haven.

Milford Haven is in Pembrokeshire, Wales. It is situated on the north side of the Milford Haven Waterway, an estuary forming a natural harbour that has been used as a port since the Middle Ages. Imports of oil and gas arrive at Milford Haven. It is the UK’s leading energy port. Port of Milford Haven’s website https://www.mhpa.co.uk/

We were able to enter the lock into the harbour at 9:30am.

After a quick shower and coffee we were met by Richard’s uncle Des, who drove for an hour to his home with aunt Ros in Pembrokeshire. We met Rachael and her family again, who we had seen in Scarborough and her husband Steve, Richards other cousin Christopher, Caroline and their family.  It was great catching up with everyone. We enjoyed a lovely meal and slept overnight in their caravan (no rocking) before returning to the boat in the morning. Thanks Ros and Des for looking after us so well. It was so generous of you to let us interrupt your family gathering.

In case you are wondering, Maisie stayed on the boat. She is much happier in familiar surroundings. After 11 weeks afloat she is mostly comfortable on the boat and has become accustomed to the routine of days in marinas and wobbly journeys between harbours. We have all enjoyed this new lifestyle, a real adventure, it will be quite strange when we finally reach home.

The weather forecast was for rain and high winds so we were glad to be safely moored in Milford Haven. We did some chores and walked ashore to collect some supplies for our next long sail. When preparing for a long crossing we like to divide the day up into a series of meals and mini treats. We enjoyed an evening meal ashore.

Winds NW 3-5

After a relaxed breakfast we left Milford Haven Marina at 9:30 am when the harbour entrance was in free flow (the lock gate was open). If we travelled at an average speed of 5 knots the 120 mile journey would take 24 hours and we would arrive in Tresco in daylight at 9:30 am. 

We had perfect winds of between 15-20 miles an hour North Westerly. This enabled a starboard beam reach for the entire journey. We averaged a speed of 6.6 knots and at times reached 8 knots. We had tides helping us at the beginning and at the end. We have never had such a consistently good sail for a long journey.

We saw several pods of dolphins. Over the years we have wasted many pixels trying to photograph dolphins. Sue was able to successfully capture some when they were leaping out of the water by using the live photo feature on her iphone. It enabled Sue to look at each picture and select the moment when the dolphins leapt as the key photo. 

After banana and coffee snack, coffee and biscuit, lunch of quiche, afternoon tea and biscuit and evening meal of tuna and cheese melt the skies started to darken. by now we realised we were going to arrive much earlier than we had anticipated. This meant a shorter solo nightwatch for us each. Richard did the 9-11pm watch, Sue 11-1:30 and Richard 1:30-4am.

We both were on watch as we arrived off New Grimsby Sound, Tresco at 4am. There was an interesting swell at the entrance, but good to see the welcoming light of White Island lighthouse. After several attempts in the dark we successfully picked up a mooring. We were tucked up in bed by 4:45am. Maisie coped really well curled up safely in the stern cabin for the most of the journey. When we are on a starboard tack she curls up in one of her carry bags. She managed to use her litter tray with no mess. Amazing Maisie cat. Maisie sailed with us to St Marys in the Scilly isles in April (see preparation post) so has now sailed all the way around Britain : )

Waking after a few hours sleep with the feeling of already being home. The Isles of Scilly have always been a special place to us. We had a wander around Tresco Abbey gardens. Richard was keen to buy a few plants to replace some that we lost last winter when we experienced some frosts in Cornwall.

We enjoyed an evening meal in the New Inn although we were a bit shocked by the increased prices. £13.50 for 2 pints of beer, everything on the menu over £20, desserts £10!! It is difficult to find places to eat when visiting Scilly this time of year. Sue had made several attempts to book evening meals a few days before we left Wales. We were glad we had booked, as the New Inn was very busy. 

After lunch we nudged the dingy over to Bryher for a wander around. First stop was Veronicas farm and buying some more plants.

The day was a little grey so we enjoyed a drink in Hells Bay Hotel before continuing our walk around the North of Bryher. This coastline is very familiar to us. We have been visiting the Isles of Scilly once or twice a year for over twenty years.

After a little refreshment in the Fraggle Rock Cafe (much more reasonably priced), we returned to Captiva for an evening meal.

The weather initially seemed a little grey but there was the promise of some blue skies on the horizon. We wandered ashore and settled up our bill for the mooring. The most expensive mooring of our entire trip at £30 per night (dearer than many of the marinas). The joys of anchoring are becoming more apparent. We had a bowl of soup each and Richard enjoyed his first pint of Proper Job in a pub since we left Cornwall.

Under blue skies we walked out to Cromwell Castle, a stone gun tower, built in 1651. It was built during the civil war by Parliamentary forces after they had captured the islands from the Royalists.

Above is King Charles’ Castle built 100 years earlier during the reign of King Edward VI. It was badly sited, the guns would have had to point down at such a steep angle that the canon balls would have rolled out of the guns before they fired.  It was partially dismantled to provide stone for Cromwell’s castle, which was built on lower ground. 

The air became warmer and once we reached the beach at Old Grimsby we were glad to have a swim in the cool seas. It was a treat to feel the warm sun drying us after our swim. We walked up to the Old Blockhouse, a Tudor artillery fort built in the late 1540s to protect Old Grimsby. 

More information about the castles and forts of Scilly available on the English Heritage website. https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/learn/histories/historic-sites-of-scilly/

We returned to Captiva to catch up with Maisie. We enjoyed a reasonably priced evening meal at the Fraggle Rock Cafe on Bryher.

Winds 3 SE then southerly.

The clouds that were creeping in the previous day fully enveloped the islands. When we got up at 5:30, we were hopeful that the mist had cleared.

Unfortunately we had poor visibility for the entire journey. We were able to use AIS to see where there were other boats. It was interesting listening to the VHF how useful AIS has become. Other boats were communicating with each other on channel 16 to check intended directions when they could see that they were nearing another vessel. They were also able to contact other boats who did not have AIS. On this grey misty day there were a greater number of vessels around us than we have experienced for our entire journey around Britain.

We left Tresco at 5:30 and were nearing our homecoming lighthouse, at St Anthony’s Head, at 4:15pm. It was difficult to see it but its sombre foghorn could be clearly heard.

So there we are, back home, in our beautiful house overlooking Falmouth. We have had an amazing adventure. We passed the time journeying home from Scilly asking each other questions like, ‘What was your favourite….” “what was the worse…..”. We can honestly say it has all been pretty wonderful. Having our amazing Maisie with us enabled us to completely detach from the everyday, the journey became a new way of life. We find it difficult to name a favourite place. There is no part of our journey that we would choose to have missed.

We would like to thank all of you who have been following our travels. We have been deeply touched by the supportive comments.

Thanks to all our wonderful family and friends. Looking forward to catching up with you all.

Special thanks to our perfect neighbours, Jill and Simon, for keeping an eye on our home.

Thanks to the fellow adventurers we met on the way.

Thanks to the lovely harbour masters and communities we visited.

Love and thanks to Richard for accompanying me on our fabulous adventure xxxx

So signing out for now from our anti-clockwise journey around Britain after 11 weeks and one day. A journey of more than 1650 miles.

Sue and Richard xxx

At 7:30 we moved Captiva from the mooring outside Peel harbour into the marina.

We had planned to stay on the Isle of Man until Saturday but we noticed strong south westerly winds were forecast that day and we were keen to avoid strong winds on our nose. The Friday forecast seemed more favourable so we endeavoured to see the Isle of Man in one day.

After some research we discovered an explorer ticket that gave us access to several modes of transport around the Isle of Man. We climbed onto a bus in Peel going to Ramsey. We were immediately mesmerised by the beautiful scenery as we travelled along on the top deck. Ramsey brought back memories for Richard, he visited the island with friends during a TT weekend.

After a coffee we found the station for the Isle of Man Electric Railway. We travelled to Laxey enjoying amazing views of the coastline and countryside.

When searching for the famous Great Laxey wheel we found the smaller Snaefell or Lady Evelyn wheel. The wheel came from the Snaefell mine that was closed in 1908. It was rebuilt in Blisland in Cornwall to pump water from a china clay pit. It fell into disuse in the 1950s and was dismantled and placed in storage in 1971. In 2003 it was returned to the Isle of Man and was restored and reconstructed at the Laxey Valley Gardens in 2006.

We walked to the Great Laxey wheel and were amazed by its incredible size. We climbed up several levels, the top one being slightly knee trembling.

We walked down to the mine entrance and had an interesting chat with one of the volunteers about the history of mining in the area. Initially lead was mined here in 1790. In the 1840s the Great Laxey Mining Company was formed, and became a massive industry, producing more zinc than all the mines in Britain put together. Life was very tough for the mine workers but a tourist industry grew up around the mining complex with summer visitors eager to climb the Great Laxey Wheel. Enterprising residents opened pavement cafes on what became known as ‘Ham and Egg Row’.

We returned to the tram station and climbed on board the Snaefell Mountain Tramway. This took us to the peak of Snaefell, which, at 610 metres is the highest point on the Isle of Man. We were fortunate that the peak was not completely covered with cloud.

Snaefell summit

On our return to Laxey we caught a tram to Douglas, the capital of the Island.

We had planned to have afternoon tea, but our chosen cafe was closing early. To maximise the use of our travel ticket we caught a steam train to Castletown. It was a scenic route on the last train of the day. The journey was longer and slower than we had anticipated. We only managed a short walk around Castletown and a beer before hopping on a bus back to Douglas then another to Peel.

In the evening we had a pizza in a lively outdoor wood fired pizzeria in Peel and helped some youngsters with the quiz taking place there.

Although only a brief snapshot, we enjoyed the Isle of Man and would have loved to have spent more time there. Sue did a project at school about the Isle of Man, back in the day when you got holiday brochures and cut out and glued pictures. She so wishes that she hadn’t waited so long to visit. There is so much to see and do on this charming Island. Very scenic, peaceful and lacking the tackiness of over tourism.

Friday Sailing to Wales

Winds SW4-5 Clouds and sun

We had a really good sail sometimes hitting 7 or 8 knots. There is a long approach to the marina which is only accessible HW + or – 3. We arrived in Conwy 7:30 and enjoyed an evening meal on board.

Saturday Great Orme

Saturday was a fairly bright day and we walked and caught a bus into Llandudno.

We wanted to climb the Great Orme Head. The tram station was very busy and the queue was nearly an hour long. We walked up instead, which was much quicker than the tram.

Once we had figured out the Llandudno bus timetables we returned to the marina. The bus company had removed all of the timetables from the bus shelters and replaced them with a QR code. It was difficult to know if we were standing at the correct bus stop. We missed two buses.

We had a good evening meal in The Mulberry restaurant in the marina.

There was a 90% chance of rain forecast in the afternoon. We set off for a walk to Conwy Castle at 9am.

After a coffee and an enjoyable walk around the walled town of Conwy, we returned to the marina. As the rain started we retreated to the Mulberry for a better internet signal (to write this blog). We had a late, light lunch before returning to the boat and Maisie.

Forgiven?

Winds SW 3 On the nose

After having spent most of our sailing adventure experiencing very light winds we are having to spend more time checking winds and tides.

We left Conwy at 10:30 when the water was high over the marina sill and the tide outside was slacker. Adverse winds and tides were with us most of the way, but it was only 18 miles.

Once we arrived at Menai we picked up a mooring after first calling the harbour office. We took the dinghy ashore for a quick wander around Menai. We found a Waitrose store : ) Yarg cheese and Richard’s first bottle of proper job after over 1000 miles. Serious withdrawal symptoms.

Aerial view of The Swellies from Caernarfon Harbour website https://www.caernarfonharbour.org.uk/passage-through-the-swellies/

The Swellies is the narrow channel that runs between mainland Wales and the island of Anglesey. It runs between the Menai and Britannia Suspension Bridges with strong tides of 5-8 knots. It is best to pass through the swellies when the tide is slack. The flood tide is divided by the Isle of Anglesey and the North and South streams meet in an area of slack water. This slack water advances from Puffin Island down the Menai Strait and reaches the swellies two hours before high water (HW) Liverpool. The water is only docile for 20-30 minutes so we were very careful to get our timings right. We had to leave Menai at 9:30am to catch the slack. We followed the recommended South Shore Passage.

We were quite relieved when we had made it safely through. Once the slack had passed the water moves fast for several hours forming eddies and making it a roller coaster ride. It was a picturesque passage.

Entering the narrow entrance of Caernarfon marina diagonally with a cross tide was interesting. The lifting sill gave access HW2±.

After a refreshing shower we were ready to meet Sue’s brother Shaun and his wife Rachael for lunch. It was great to see them and we enjoyed a relaxed pub lunch near to the castle. We wandered back to the boat for refreshments sitting in the sunshine. An enjoyable afternoon, thanks for coming to meet up with us.

Winds W then NW 3-4

Exiting over Caernarfon Bar was interesting as extended for miles.

We motor sailed at the start but as the wind shifted round we were on a comfortable beam reach.

We chose to pick up a mooring at Abersoch so that we were not restricted by tides when leaving in the morning. The seas were a little bit rolly until 11pm but we all had a good nights sleep after an enjoyable sailing day.

Wind W 1-2 Sunny then grey

We left Colonsay at 6am to catch the tide through Islay sound.

We reached this scenic stretch of water between Jura and Islay at 8am. Good timing gave us speeds of 8- 9 knots with nearly no wind. We wriggled in and out of the coast slightly to take photos of some of the whisky distilleries.

We arrived at the marina in Port Ellen just after midday in time for some lunch on board.

There are 9 working distilleries on Islay with two more opening in the next couple of years. We had tried, over several days, to book a tour around a distillery within walking or bus distance from Port Ellen. They were all fully booked.

We decided on a walk along the coast road towards the nearest 3 distilleries. Stopping at the second one, Lagavulin, for a wee dram, we chose the whisky of the day because it had been chosen by Craig (Sue’s eldest son is also called Craig). It was an 8 year old single malt. Richard quite liked it, not too peaty. We had it with some water.

We had a lovely evening meal in Port Ellen at the Seasalt Bistro.

Wind W 1 Bright then grey

After a leisurely breakfast we departed from a very calm, serene, Port Ellen, Islay.

We had again timed our departure around the tides. They are quite fierce around Rathlin, running at 6 knots during spring tides. The seas were suddenly quite lumpy as we approached the North west side, due to the over falls.

Once we were around the corner the sea flattened and we had an easy approach into the harbour and marina.

After lunch we wandered across the Island to the East Lighthouse, on Altacarry head. It was built in 1856.

Below the lighthouse is a ‘Bruce’s cave’ where Robert the Bruce allegedly hid in 1306. A spider encouraged him to return to Scotland to win the Battle of Bannockburn. The saying ‘If at once you don’t succeed, try, try again’ originates from the spider story. There are several Bruce’s caves in Scotland according to this amusing BBC article about a cave in Gretna. https://www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/education/as/warsofindependence/info.shtml?loc=cave1

We wandered back to the harbour and enjoyed our first pint of Guinness on our journey around Britain. The first of many in Northern Ireland.

We liked Rathlin Island. We were expecting it to be a remote nature reserve, but it was very friendly, with a cafe, shop, hotel and pub. We had discussed whether to stay another day.

Winds W 1 Sunny start, cloud later

Quite a lot of rain went through overnight, and with a bright morning we were looking forward to another leisurely motor sail over to Glenarm on the East coast of Northern Ireland. After breakfast Richard started the engine and………….

Very similar symptoms to when we had engine trouble in Lowestoft during week 4. Fortunately the harbour lady knew someone who could take a look at it. He eventually found a loose wire going to the relay.

Once the engine had been mended it was late afternoon. We had time for a shorter walk rather than the bike ride we had hoped to do. The walk again became slightly elongated because of Richard’s now banned Pocket Earth online map. We lost the ‘easy’ path and had to climb over wobbly dry stone walls to find the road.

Another Guinness in McCuaig’s bar was very much needed before an evening meal aboard Captiva.

Wind ENE 2 Grey

The engine started first time and we left Rathlin at 9am. We left the harbour and encountered a large pod of common dolphins.

We managed some proper sailing and arrived in Glenarm for a late lunch.

There was a strange sea effect as we approached the harbour. A line across the water marking an area of much darker and browner sea, with yellow foam. Apparently the water from the rivers runs over peat, and, especially after lots of rain, causes the sea to be this deep brown colour. A relief that it wasn’t pollution after the way water companies have been behaving.

After lunch we walked to nearby Glenarm Castle Gardens. Dating from the 18th century, the walled garden is in the grounds of Glenarm Castle, the ancestral home of the McDonnell family, Earls of Antrim. It was a lovely garden, with extremely straight yew hedges bordered by cottage garden style planting. There was also a lovely woodland walk.

After exploring we retired to the cafe for a cuppa and delicious strawberry and black forest gateaux. A lovely afternoon.

This was followed by our now obligatory pint of guinness before an evening meal on board Captiva

Wind NNE 1-2 Grey

We left Glenarm at 9:30 for a gentle motor sail to Bangor in Belfast Lough.

We arrived in time for lunch and a quick shower. Richard had time for a quick hair cut before we met up with Judy, Richard’s Aunt.

Judy took us by car to her home in North County Down. It was the first time we had been in a car for 9 weeks.

We had a scrumptious afternoon tea and evening meal with Judy, Tony, Penny, Felicity and a menagerie of dogs and cats. It was great catching up, as we hadn’t seen them since 2017. Thank you all very much, was really great seeing you. Sorry we forgot to take any photographs.

The weather forecast was for it to remain dry so we tackled the laundry. We hung out the washing around the rails and sheets (ropes) of the boat and wandered to Asda for a major food stock up. As we struggled out of the supermarket with our bags of shopping we were disconcerted to find wet pavements and grey skies. The Met Office had really let us down. We retreated to the boat, unloaded our purchases and grabbed the washing and rehung most of it inside the boat.

At 12:30 we met up with Nigel and Joan. Richard worked with Nigel at Cable and Wireless. We had lunch in Bangor before being driven to Mount Stewart, a National Trust property. It is a 19th Century house and garden on the east shore of Strangford Lough, County Down. It was the Irish seat of the Stewart family, the Marquesses of Londonderry.

We had a lovely walk around the house and gardens with our very knowledgeable tour guides, Nigel and Joan.

We were then taken to Portaferry, at the mouth of Strangford Lough.

The little car ferry took us over to Strangford where we had a delicious meal in the Cuam restaurant. Our chauffeur (Nigel) then drove us back to Bangor marina.

We had a really fantastic day, thank you Nigel and Joan.

Winds SE (straight from Peel) Grey and wet

We left Bangor Nortern Ireland at 8:30. We had a lovely sail along the Northern Irish coast until we had passed the Copelands. We then turned South East for the Isle of Man.

The Copeland Islands

Of course as soon as we turned South East, the wind did the same. We then had 9 hours of battling lumpy seas and 20-30mph winds on the nose. With clever tacking we kept a reasonable pace but had to do extra mileage.

We arrived too late to enter the marina at Peel so picked up a mooring in the harbour entrance at 8:30pm. A 12 hour journey that we had hoped to do in 9 hours.

Outside Peel harbour, Isle of Man

Amazing Maisie after enduring a 12 hour sail.

Winds SW 2 Grey and wet

We left Loch a Choire at 9:30am, in grey drizzly weather. The forecast for this week seemed to be light winds and wet weather.

The village of Lochaline is on the Morvern peninsula on the sound of Mull. Morvern covers an area of 250 square miles but has a population of just over 300. Aline means beautiful, so beautiful loch, which it was. The yacht harbour was very friendly and keen to offer advice on the local shop and eateries (2 cafes, 1 restaurant and a social club serving pizzas).

As we walked into the village we passed the origin of the slight rumbling sound we noticed in the harbour. Between the pontoons and the village is a Silica Sand mine. The entrance to the mine feels very cold as you walk past. It is cut into a layer of white sandstone that is 99.8% quartz (silica SiO₂ ). It was opened during the second world war when pure silica was needed to make periscope lenses and gunsights. The pure quartz is now used for high quality glassware, solar glass and silicon carbide abrasives.

After a quick (second) lunch, Sue couldn’t resist a venison burger, we wandered around the loch. We had noticed ruined Ardtornish castle on the headland as we entered Loch Aline but it was too far to walk to. We walked instead to Ardtornish house and boathouse. The gardens are open to the public (mornings only) but the house has been divided into apartments. There is also privately owned Kinlochaline castle nearby. All were part of the Ardtornish estate.

A lovely walk followed by a beer and pizza in the social club.

Wind SE 1-2 Grey grey grey

Tobermory is on the island of Mull. There are many quirky shops, pubs and restaurants. Near to the harbour is an aquarium and a whisky distillery, a veritable metropolis. We planned to spend one night at Tobermory so wandered along the seafront and out towards the lighthouse.

We booked an evening meal in the cosy Tobermory Hotel. Delicious meal and friendly service.

Due to a change to the weather forecast on Sunday we decided to stay on the marina pontoon at Tobermory in the forecast 20-30mph winds. Going ashore would be much easier.

We tried to do some laundry but all the machines were very busy so we went for a walk to a nearby waterfall.

We returned to the boat for lunch and finally tackled the laundry. As ever, as soon as Sue had hung out the washing it tried to rain again. A quiet afternoon relaxing and successfully drying washing in between showers.

Wet, wet and wetter

We have been very lucky to have not had many days like this. The rain was so heavy. We did a few jobs on the boat in the morning, cleaning, blog writing etc. After lunch we visited Mull aquarium near to the harbour office. It is a catch and release aquarium where the creatures are released after up to four weeks, close to where they were found. They are all creatures that live in the Tobermory bay area. There were many varieties of starfish. They had several catfish which sleep for most of the day and hunt at night. (Which is why they are called catfish)

The whisky distillery tour was fully booked so we sheltered in a nearby bar. We wandered further along the harbour and found a pub that was showing the Wimbledon final. There was a great atmosphere. We chatted to a couple who had sailed a lot around these parts. They recommended that we should visit Coll.

Winds W 1-2 Grey then brighter

The Isle of Coll is west of Mull with a population of around 160. Thirteen miles in length and four miles across. We arrived in time for a quick lunch on board after picking up a mooring. We had not used the dingy since we were at Lulworth cove, many weeks ago. We motored ashore and tied up to a quay. We started walking towards the North of the island but the air started to feel cooler and damper so we walked along the hamlet of Arinagour. Many places were closed but we were able to retreat into The Coll Hotel.

The weather started to improve during the afternoon. We waited for the shop to open, for a few supplies, while sitting in the sheltered sunshine of the hotel garden.

We returned to the Coll hotel, via an easier quay, for a very good evening meal. Sitting in the bar were the couple who had recommended Coll the day before.

Wind E 1 Sunny

Staffa (meaning Pillar Island in old Norse) is an uninhabited island 6 miles off the coast of Mull.

“Its hexagonal columns were formed millions of years ago by volcanic eruptions and a vast blanket of lava that spread into the Atlantic Ocean. Years of waves crashing against these columns created the magnificent Fingal’s Cave.” The acoustics of Fingal’s Cave inspired Mendelssohn to compose his Hebrides Overture https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/staffa

We did not anchor off Iona because it can have poor holding. Bull Hole was a fantastically quiet spot. After anchoring and lunch we walked to the ferry port at Fionnphort and took a short ferry ride over to Iona.

Iona is a small, peaceful island off the Ross of Mull. It is 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide with a permanent population of 170. We walked around the old Nunnery and past Iona Abbey.

The beautiful white sand beaches reminded us of Scilly.

We decided to continue walking along the coast. All was fine until we started to run out of beach and headed inland. In the summer we often walk in walking sandals. On Iona the footpaths were hard to find and underfoot was wet, soggy moss and peat, even on higher ground. Our online walking maps were useless and it took us ages, up and down soggy bog to get back to the road.

After washing our feet, sandals and legs in the sea we headed back to the ferry. Then a slightly muddy walk to our peaceful anchorage for a swim, shower and evening meal.

Winds W 2 Sunny but cool breeze

Colonsay and Oronsay are an island pair North of Islay and South of Mull. They are 10 miles by 2 miles. After lunch we ventured ashore. We checked maps and it looked like a short walk on a footpath to the road. We decided to wear sandals again.

The footpath? A little soft underfoot : (

Dun Eibhinn on the skyline opposite this plaque is all that remains of an 11th century fort. A seat of viking power in the Western Isles

It is a picturesque Island but similar to Coll, to reach other interesting parts of it, in the time we had, we would have needed a bike or a car. Also most places of interest were closed after lunch. A lovely place to spend a few days if you have road transport. We found the Colonsay hotel for a drink in the sun. A slightly better route back to the beach and our dingy, gave us amazing views of our mooring and the harbour.

Although we have had typical Scottish weather, we have enjoyed this part of our journey. In the right clothing we could still enjoy the beautiful scenery. But would certainly wear my walking boots more often.

Inspiring quote that popped up online this week. Not had trade winds mostly light breezes in our sails : )

‘Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do, so throw off the bowlines, sail away from safe harbour, catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore, Dream, Discover.’

Mark Twain

Hope Maisie agrees

Wind 1 Variable Calm and cloudy

We left Lossiemouth early as we were in a shallow mud berth and wanted to avoid getting stuck. It was a beautiful calm morning but as we approached the main channel Richard suddenly decided to go for a swim……….

We gently continued along the Moray Firth to Inverness. It seemed different seeing land both sides of us. For so long we have just had land on our port side (left side when facing forwards towards bow of boat).

We decided to have a wander into Inverness. It was a little further than we realised but was good to stretch the legs. Despite the rain we saw attractive old buildings and river views of Inverness. We sheltered in Victoria market during one downpour, then enjoyed a quick drink in a cosy bar before returning to the marina.

We bought our licence online to enable us to enter the Caledonian canal the next day. It costs £22.35 per metre (we are 10.7m) and includes locks, bridges, mooring and use of facilities for 7 nights. scottishcanals.co.uk

Wind 1 Variable.

7 Locks 3 Swing bridges

The Caledonian Canal was completed in 1822 by Scottish engineer Thomas Telford. It connects the East and West coasts between Inverness and Corpach.

Length of natural lochs 61.16km (38 miles)

Length of canal cuttings 35.4km (22 miles)

Total length of canal 96.56 km (60 miles)

29 lochs and 11 bridges

We contacted Clachnaharry Sea Lock by VHF radio to confirm our booking for midday and motored around to the entrance. We were given instructions regarding the order we should enter and side of the lock. We were third to enter and tied up Port side. The first hurdle was having to throw the ropes up to the lock keeper. The walls feel very high when throwing a heavy rope. He hooked us onto the side of the lock and passed the rope back down to us. We had to then hold it firm as the lock began filling with water. We were lucky not being at the front of the lock where the water can get quite swirly.

After passing through a second lock we had a quick lunch on board at Seaport Marina. After the lock keepers had finished their lunch break we passed through the swing bridge and the 5 locks at Muirtown.

Emerging from the locks we had swapped bleak grey seascapes for a gentler pastoral landscape. We arrived at Dochgarroch just in time to grab a gelato ice cream before the shop closed at 5pm. We had a really peaceful nights sleep (apart from 3:30 when Maisie woke us to be lifted onto our bed). : )

Wind Variable

0 Bridges 1 lock 2 lochs

The friendly lock keeper was quite flexible about when we could enter the lock. We radioed him in the morning and passed through at about 9:15am. The lock keeper gave Sue some rope throwing tips so she’s hoping to be able to throw the rope to the top of the wall first time at the next lock. He warned us about a yacht that had run aground near a weir in Loch Dochfour. They had gone to the wrong side of the lateral buoy. He had no idea when they would be floated again as there is no tide in the canal. It’s worth noting that when travelling East to West on the Caledonian canal the green buoy should be to your left and red to your right.

The English Channel is about 70-90 metres deep.

Loch Ness maximum length is 36.2km (22.5 miles) and 2.7km (1.7 miles) maximum width. It is the largest lake by volume in the UK (7.30km³). At the southern end of Loch Ness is Fort Augustus. We tied up there for the night.

We have learnt a lot about different washing machines during our sailing trip. At Fort Augustus there was a top loader machine which we couldn’t get to work. Thankfully the lock keeper gave the lid a good slam and it started. By then it was too late to cook so we managed to catch up the laundry while enjoying a beer and an evening meal in the pub. Richard will be volunteering to do the washing when we get home.

Wind calm and irrelevant. Weather initially wet then blue skies and sunshine.

3 bridges and 7 locks and 1 loch

Wind still irrelevant. Weather sunny start then rain.

0 bridges 1 lock and 1 loch

We had a relaxed start enjoying a leisurely breakfast in the sun. We travelled through the lock at South Laggan at 9:50. No need to worry about throwing ropes as the water level is high from now on when we enter the lochs. Down hill to Loch Lochy.

Arriving at Gairlochy around midday we had a little walk and chatted to an engineer from Scottish Canals. Richard was keen to talk about the lovely Gordon Setter the engineer had with him. The engineer mentioned he had been fixing the bridge that morning. We found this disconcerting because a few weeks ago the bridge had been closed for 5 days. https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/highlands-islands/5875210/gairlochy-swing-bridge-closed-caledonian-canal/

In the afternoon the first group of boats proceeded through the lock and bridge. We then made our way into the lock with other waiting boats. It is a fairly deep lock, the lock keeper said the water level dropped by 12 feet. When we were at the bottom of the lock the gates opened but we were asked not to move forward until the swing bridge had opened.

They were having difficulties opening the swing bridge. After two hours of waiting in the lock the gates were closed and the lock was refilled with water. We all had to reverse out and tie back up to the pontoons. They would try to fix the bridge in the morning. The controls for the bridge had been updated in 2021 so that they could be controlled electronically. Today the controls had kept showing an error notice.

Fortunately we had planned to eat on board in the evening, but the tea and chocolate chip cookie supplies were becoming a bit desperate.

Wind doesn’t matter in a lock. Weather dull and wet

Number of locks and bridges? Read on ….

We all waited patiently listening to VHF channel 74 from 8am onwards. At 11:30 we were amongst the first group of boats asked to enter the lock.

We could have continued with the group of boats from Gairlochy down Neptune’s staircase. Unfortunately Maisie had an appointment at Nevis vets for her blood test.

It was worthwhile not cancelling Maisie’s vet appointment. In four weeks her weight has increased by nearly 1 kg. Her condition score is now a healthier 3. : )

In the evening we had a bad meal at The Moorings Hotel, don’t recommend, we should have checked the reviews first.

So locks today 2 and bridges 2

Neptunes staircase is a dramatic flight of eight locks in the village of Banavie. In the shadow of Ben Nevis the lock lowers the canal by 19m (62 feet) in 0.4km (quarter of a mile). It takes an average 90 minutes to navigate the locks.

The lock keeper was chatting to all of the waiting boats from 8am onwards. A large square rigger entered the first lock and proceeded down two flights. We then entered the top lock with 5 other boats. We had a yacht rafted on Captiva for the entire journey to the sea.

At the bottom of Neptune’s staircase we had to wait for a yacht that was going to make the journey upwards before they opened the bridge. Suddenly there were cascades of water behind us.

Corpach Sea Lock is on the side of Loch Linnhe (a tidal sea loch). We motored past Fort William to Loch a Choire. Richard pumped up the dingy (we last used it in Lulworth Cove) and we anchored for the night. A little too wet to go ashore.

Wind NNW 4-1 Cloudy

Arbroath has a lock into the harbour that only opens 3 hours either side of high tide. It was closing at 1:30 that afternoon and not reopening until the next day. There would have been nowhere to moor nearby so we departed from Eyemouth at 3:30 in the morning. We had a good sail for most of the journey except for the last two hours and arrived at 12.30.

After lunch we did some laundry then had a wander around the town.

Wind Southerly 2 light and sometimes variable

We left Arbroath at 8:30 and had a slow but gentle motorsail, arriving at Stonehaven at 4:30pm

Carron Fish bar story https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-north-east-orkney-shetland-33588382

We only had a short time in Stonehaven, but, mars bars apart, it had some nice little eateries, a 50m heated outdoor pool, a pretty seafront and friendly harbour. It was a useful stopping off point about halfway between Arbroath and Peterhead.

Winds 2-7 NW and W. Cloudy with rain showers

We left Stonehaven at 8:30AM. We were advised by the yacht that rafted on to us that it was best not to leave too early to enable us to take advantage of the better tides nearer to Peterhead.

It was a little bit brighter but still windy. We did some chores and managed to keep the washing attached to the boat for long enough to dry it. (The marina tumble dryer decided to stop working).

Late afternoon we walked to the cinema in Peterhead to see the new Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny film. Hard not to admire octogenarian Harrison Ford in this action packed film, and Phoebe Waller-Bridge was enjoyable as con-artist Helen Shaw. The film critics don’t seem to like it but if you enjoyed the first few films of the franchise, this is very much in the same style. It was a nostalgic and entertaining two hours.

The Hollywood Reporter review summary https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/movies/movie-news/indiana-jones-5-review-roundup-1235495961/

We thought we would have a bite to eat after the movie but the only place the harbour master could suggest was “spoonies” (The Cross Keys which is the local Wetherspoons). It was our cheapest meal out, two meals and two pints for £15. Richards small fish and chips was quite good.

We decided to stay another day in Peterhead to allow the winds to subside further and to check Captiva’s batteries. There was no electric hook up in Stonehaven and when sailing spectacularly on Saturday without the engine, the autohelm kept going to standby because of insufficient voltage in the house battery. The batteries are 5 years old so we have decided to buy some new ones. An engineer visited us and hopes to meet us in Whitehills with the new batteries.

After meeting the engineer we wandered to the tourist hotspot of Peterhead, the Prison Museum. HMP Peterhead operated between 1888 and 2013 and was the most notorious prison in Scotland. It was a grim but interesting place to visit.

https://peterheadprisonmuseum.com/

We wandered further along the road to a small village called Boddam where Mr Google said we might find a good lunch. We enjoyed a large fish pie each in The Bistro restaurant of the Seaview hotel. We caught a bus back to Peterhead, replenished our food supplies before returning to Captiva.

Winds 1-3 NW Grey with rain showers

We left Peterhead at 6AM, a little later than other boats, although we now know why they chose to leave earlier (more later). There was a swell as we travelled North which made the going a little uncomfortable. Maisie had to be in her cabin for the first few hours. The good winds enable us to make good progress and we had the benefit of the tide with us.

Coast Peterhead to Rattray and Kinnaird Heads

Once we had gone around Rattray and Kinnaird heads the swell and winds started to ease. We had left the North Sea and were in The Moray Firth. We have now reached the most Northerly part of our journey around Britain. We shall now be heading South and West (homeward bound).

Walking around we got chatting to a fellow sailor from the Netherlands, who had also just arrived from Peterhead. Over a beer or two we found out he is sailing around the North Sea from The Netherlands via the British East coast to Norway then home again.

Winds 1 Easterly Fortunately felt a little warmer than the forecast of 13 degrees, cloudy with rain showers

So…….

We intended to leave at 7:30 but as we tried to turn in the harbour we ran aground. Fortunately the crew on Hereward (Rose and friend) helped us to pull Captiva back towards their boat and then we turned her around using ropes. Apparently the corner of the harbour silts up with sand. A coffee and wait for the tide to increase (low tide 8:10AM) was muted but with a depth on the charts of 1.5 metres we decided to try to leave (now 7:50AM). We comfortably turned out of the harbour this time and then……….

We ran aground again!!

We were unable to throw a rope ashore to the harbour wall to Hereward crew, so the lovely Rose fetched her wetsuit and took a rope ashore for us. By this time the harbour master had arrived and between them all we managed to tie up to the harbour wall then gradually pull ourselves along the wall. By 8:45 we were afloat again and quietly left Whitehills.

Lesson learnt, always chat to the lovely harbour masters, who are very friendly and keen to share good advice. He was suprised that we got stuck with our depth of 1.5 metres but they have a lot of sand movement.

A relieved Richard

We arrived at Lossiemouth near to high tide. The harbour is relatively shallow (0.4m above mud at low tide) so we shall be carefull with our timings : )

The engineer arrived with the new batteries and they were quickly installed. We then had a wander around lovely Lossiemouth, a pretty town with long sandy beaches.

We are recognising boats from other harbours we have visited on the East coast. A consequence of there being fewer yachts in this area. It is great catching up with people and getting tips about the places we plan to visit. We had a good meal out this evening with the gentleman from the Netherlands (We think his name is a Dutch version of Dave?) The restaurant was the Salt Cellar and we all had Aberdeen Angus steak. Richard and Dave had theirs with haggis.

Wind NE 2-3 Mostly sunny

We left Grimsby at 7am. We did not get much help from the wind as it was on our nose and we mostly motored for the entire 12 hour journey. Fortunately the seas were very calm so we just relaxed in the sun. There were lots of seabirds, razor bills, guillemots and puffins, near Flamborough head.
The times for coming in and out of Scarborough are plus or minus 2 hours around high tide. Initially the harbour master wasn’t certain that he had a space. We were tied onto a ladder on the harbour wall while he took Richard to check for spaces. We had hoped to arrive by 6pm but it was 7:30 before we were tied up in the marina. Fortunately we had eaten during the journey, so once we were settled in the marina we had a quick walk along Scarborough seafront.

We had arranged to meet Richard’s cousin Rachel and her two children Sadie and Ethan.

After they had explored the boat we walked up the hill to Scarborough castle.

After that we were ready for a lunch with fish and chips followed by ice cream.

We said our goodbyes after a lovely day. We walked a little further along the coast to North Bay.

Visually the coastline, buildings, harbour and beaches of Scarborough could compete with any along the south coast. There are good transport links and it is not too cut off from major towns and cities (some quite affluent). But the seafront is an endless line of empty amusement arcades and fun-fair rides with every restaurant claiming to be the best fish and chip shop.

Early evening walk, tacky seafront beside lovely South Bay beach

Saturday and Whitby

Winds SW 0-4 variable Sunny

We left Scarborough about 8am (plus or minus 2hours around high tide) hoping to arrive in time for the bridge opening in Whitby. We checked prior to leaving with the harbour master at Whitby and he said we had until 10:50. We arrived at 10:30 just as the bridge was closing. He said (rather bluntly) that it would not reopen until 18:00.

Fortunately we were able to moor at the holding pontoon. Apart from the very high ladder to reach the quay this worked fairly well and enabled us to explore Whitby.

It was a very warm and sunny Saturday in a bustling Whitby. A characterful place, with a combination of historic architecture and superb landscape. We initially wandered around the thronging streets on the right side of the harbour. There was a greater choice of eateries and more interesting shops compared to Scarborough.

We then crossed the aforementioned bridge to wander the cobbled narrow streets. We climbed the 199 steps (I counted 201?) to St Marys Church and Whitby Abbey.

Inside the church there is a notice saying “Please do not ask staff where Dracula’s grave is as there isn’t one”. Sue has just finished rereading the Bram Stoker novel. Dracula meets his end in Transylvania, stake through the heart and turns to dust, so no grave.

A passage in the book reads “Then as the cloud passed I could see the ruins of the abbey coming into view, and as the edge of a narrow band of light as sharp as a sword-cut moved along, the church and churchyard became gradually visible………………….but it seemed to me as though something dark stood behind the seat where the white figure shone, and bent over it. What it was, whether man or beast, I could not tell”. Eeeeeeeek!

There is a good article about Bram Stokers inspiration for Dracula on the English Heritage website link here https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/whitby-abbey/history-and-stories/dracula/

it was a really hot day, so we walked back to the other side of the harbour and the beach. We had a refreshing dip in the sea. We returned to the boat at 5pm. There were two other yachts rafted on to us. They were locals and said that the harbour master was quite quick at opening and closing the bridge, and not always at the expected times. We all cast off and meandered up and down until the bridge opened enabling us to enter the marina.

Wind SE-NW (every direction) 2-6 Sunny then wet and very wet

We had Captiva tied up by 8:30pm, time to grab a quick takeaway meal in town.

After a leisurely breakfast and sorting the laundry we walked to Warkworth. A lovely village and castle.

We then hopped onto a bus to Alnwick. We visited the castle, which was used in some of the Harry Potter films.

We then visited Alnwick gardens

Wind 2 Southerly Grey skies and some rain, calm seas

We left Amble at 9am after refuelling. We had a leisurely motor sail in gentle southerly winds.

Video of the Farne Islands, unfortunately visibility not great so no pictures of Holy island and Lindisfarne

Eyemouth is predominantly a busy fishing harbour but the harbour staff were very welcoming. The weather forecast was for 90% rain after midday. We had a quick walk around Eyemouth town and restocked our food stores in the morning.

In the evening we had a short walk to the south side of the harbour. Back on the opposite side we had probably the best restaurant meal of our entire trip. Would really recommend Oblo Bistro in Eyemouth. Food and service fantastic. Sue had a sea bass, crayfish and mint pasta followed by mint chocolate cheesecake. Richard had haggis croquettes, meatballs, olives and chips followed by lemon posset. Lovely.

Richard was born in Musselburgh near Edinburgh. He lived in Edinburgh until he was 9 years old before moving to Bristol. We did some research and there are thirteen things you should never say to a person from Scotland https://www.trafalgar.com/real-word/13-things-never-say-person-from-scotland/

We are nearly half way through our journey around Britain. We are both feeling very relaxed. Sue has rediscovered sleep. Maisie has settled in to this new lifestyle. She usually wakes us up at sunrise (4:25) but tomorrow we leave Eyemouth at 3:30am. The tides are neaps and we have to be in Arbroath by 1:32pm for the locks………….. to be continued…